When winter bites, keeping a horse comfortable comes down to three things: staying dry, blocking the wind, and feeding the furnace.
Upgrade winter comfort with breathable, waterproof turnouts and coolers from Grewal Equestrian.
Quick answer: What to do tonight
Start with your horse's coat, then layer in the weather:
Horses drink the most within 1–2 hours after feeding, so make warmed water easy to find at mealtimes. Aim for 10–12 gallons/day for a 1,000‑lb horse.
How horses stay warm
Horses thrive in the cold better than we do. For many horses it’s ~41°F with a summer coat and ~18°F with a winter coat but wind, rain and snow lower a horse's resistance to the cold. Keep them dry and out of the wind and they’ll tolerate cold remarkably well. In fact, horses can be comfortable around 0°F when dry with no wind, and as low as –40°F when they have shelter from wind and moisture.
Blanketing basics: Types, fill weights, and when they make sense
Use turnout blankets outdoors (waterproof, tougher shells) and stable blankets indoors (not waterproof). A turnout sheet (0 g) is for wind/rain protection, not warmth; below the mid‑30s a medium (≈150–225 g) or heavy (≈250–400 g) does more to keep heat in. If you’re buying only one, a medium turnout covers the broadest range, from mid‑40s and rain down into the teens for many horses. This is provided you adjust for wind and wet.
A sheet alone can flatten the coat’s loft and won’t add much warmth in deep cold. Don’t rely on it for insulation.
Fit, layering, and strap safety (warmth without rubs)
Measure chest to tail, then check wither relief and shoulder room once the rug is on. Place a hand under the front and girth area: you want warm and dry, not sweaty. Belly straps should be snug but not tight; cross the leg straps so they balance tension and don’t dangle. If you stack layers, put breathable pieces closest to the horse and a turnout over a stable if you must mix types. Add a neck cover when wind or sleet is cutting across the shoulders and crest.
Wet‑weather and post‑work routines
Best practice is dry, then blanket. To cool down after work, use a wicking cooler, towel damp areas, and then swap to the turnout or stable rug. That avoids trapping moisture against the skin. Some guidance allows blanketing a wet horse in a breathable turnout if temperatures are falling fast, but you should check the skin later and change to a dry rug once the coat has wicked off. Either way, don’t leave wet rugs on, and re‑proof outer shells when they stop beading water.
Hoof care, traction, and paddock ice
Pick hooves often to pop out snowballs, and keep trims on schedule (6–12 weeks). Barefoot horses usually grip snow/ice better than shod horses; if shoes are necessary, talk to your farrier about snow pads and studs. On ice, use sand for traction (don’t feed near it), straight salt sparingly to melt when temps allow, and avoid sand‑salt mixes. Horses may ingest sand chasing salt. Thin layers of wood ash or fresh manure can add temporary grip.
Special cases: When “extra” warmth is non‑negotiable
Clippered, thin, seniors, youngsters, and late‑gestation mares often need earlier/heavier blankets, priority shelter, warm water, and extra forage. And pay attention to preference: in research, horses taught to signal with symbols tended to choose blankets in cold, wet, or windy weather and declined them in milder conditions. Your horse’s behavior is valuable data.
Mistakes that make horses colder (or sicker)
The big ones are over‑blanketing because sweat can lead to chill, turning out in a stable blanket (not waterproof), relying on a sheet alone for warmth in deep cold, leaving wet rugs on, and letting straps dangle. Fix them, and you’ll solve most winter comfort problems before they start.
Care and maintenance: Keep rugs working all winter
Brush off hair and grit, wash according to label, and re‑proof when water stops beading. Hose‑test shells, repair small tears quickly, and retire rugs with cracked shells, crushed fill, failed stitching, stretched straps, or persistent rubs that don’t resolve after refit.
FAQ
Do horses need blankets?
It depends on coat, body condition, wind/wet, and shelter. Many acclimated, unclipped horses do well dry and out of the wind; clipped, thin, or senior horses usually need more help.
What is the ideal blanket weight for 30°F?
For clipped horses—or if it’s windy/wet—start with a medium turnout; an unclipped horse with shelter may be fine in a sheet or nothing if dry. Always hand‑check under the rug and adjust.
Is it OK to blanket a wet horse?
Best practice is dry first, then blanket. If temperatures are dropping and you must rug, a breathable turnout can help wick moisture—but check the skin later and change to a dry rug as soon as you can.
How warm should winter water be?
Offer 45–65°F water and expect most drinking right after meals. Plan on 10–12 gallons/day for a 1,000‑lb horse.
How much hay in a cold snap?
As a rule of thumb, add ~1% dietary energy per °F below the winter‑coat LCT (~18°F) for exposed horses; for many, this simply means more hay.
Explore Grewal Equestrian turnouts, liners, and coolers designed to keep horses dry, warm, and comfortable without bulk.
